Being Safe in Botswana: Lessons from a Young Traveler

When I learned that I would be spending the next six months studying cervical cancer in Botswana, my brain was bombarded by questions. How would I get there? Would my patients like me? How would I pack for frigid nights and frying-pan hot days? What food would I eat? All of these questions would be answered in time. One question that did not immediately come to mind was “How will I stay safe?” As a young Caucasian girl from America, there are always increased risks when traveling abroad, especially to a non-Western country with a very different culture. Although I had previously spent a few weeks each in India, China, and South Africa, this was going to be my first long-term experience living abroad and the first time I was living and working alone. I was extremely fortunate to find Sara’s Wish Foundation not only to help me fund my travel to and from Botswana but to help me remember how important it is to plan ahead in order to be as safe as possible in the unfamiliar environment I was about to encounter.
My first step was making sure that I had contacts both in Botswana and the US that could help in case of emergency. I registered with International SOS, the emergency medical and security assistance provider for the University of Pennsylvania as well as their Global Activities Registrar. Additionally, I downloaded the International SOS app on my phone so it would always be in reach. I also made a point to reach out to the in-country coordinators at the Botswana-UPenn Partnership so that they were well informed of my travel plans. The second step was contacting a friend who had just returned home from a year-long fellowship studying at the University of Botswana. She was able to tell me about transportation, housing, and general cultural norms I should be aware of. This vital information helped ease me into everyday living in Gaborone, the capital, when I finally arrived a few months later. I felt more confident about how to interact with locals, navigate the public transportation (and gauge when it was a good idea to use it or not), and also allowed me to find a safe living situation in a homestay with a wonderful retired couple.
In addition to the specific advice from my knowledgeable friend, I also gathered advice from locals during my first few weeks. For example, when my Batswana friends would caution against riding in a mini bus after sunset, I heeded their words and would always get a cab. And of course, I always used the seatbelts! I also learned about cross-country travel. After hearing how crowded buses could get, I made a distinct effort to arrive early at the bus station to secure a seat instead of having to stand. Finally, I found that transportation in a foreign country isn’t so hard if you can make friends that you trust. I was able to connect with many other expatriates like myself who had personal transportation that was safer and more reliable than public transport. These friends were a lifeline to me and definitely reduced my travel risk during my stay. Being safe isn’t just about finding safe means of transport, it is also about making relationships with people who will help you, know your whereabouts, and even be lifelong friends.

Hitchhiking: Hitchhiking, or simply “hiking” as it is referred to locally, is the most common form of transport in Namibia (and in much of southern Africa). Many people in Namibia who live in remote areas don’t have their own vehicles, so they get rides with those who do, splitting the cost of gas. In addition to being the most common form of transport, hiking can also be the best way to see this beautiful country if you don’t have access to your own car.
I hiked throughout my time in Namibia and found it to be a great method of transportation. However, there are some ways to be smart hiker!
First, start conversations with those waiting with you at the hike point for a ride. Not only is it a great way to meet interesting people, they most likely will help you find a ride and make sure you get where you need to go.
Second, when a car does arrive and you are arranging a ride, always make sure to ask the driver where he/she is going, rather than revealing your own destination. That way, if you feel uncomfortable about the ride or want to refuse the hike, you can do so easily by saying you need to travel somewhere else.
Third, always make sure to negotiate the price of the ride in advance. It’s no fun arriving at your destination expecting to pay one price only to find out that your driver wants more!
Finally, go with your gut! You know if a situation seems unsafe or a person makes you uncomfortable, even if you can’t really explain why. Never take a hike where you don’t feel sure about the driver and his/her car.
Cabs: In bigger cities like Windhoek, cabs are the best way to get around. Legitimate, registered cabs will always have large numbers painted on the doors and the back window. Never get in a “cab” that is not painted with these numbers.
Greeting: This might seem like common sense, but you should also make sure you greet people politely before speaking with them. In Namibia, and in many other countries throughout Africa, correct greetings are extremely important as they are a sign of respect and understanding. Speaking to someone without first saying “Hello, how are you?” and allowing them to respond in kind is considered very rude and disrespectful. No matter whom you are speaking to – your boss, your neighbor, a cab driver, a grocery store clerk – always greet them before beginning a conversation or asking for help.
ATMs: When withdrawing cash from an ATM also make sure to check that no one is standing close behind you, as it is common for thieves to look over your shoulder to steal your pin number. Also, if anyone offers to “help you” withdraw money, always refuse as they are most likely looking to steal your debit card.
Important Documents: Make copies of all your important documents – passport, visa, credit cards, etc. Leave a copy at home with a family member or trusted friend and take several copies with you. Having a copy will make replacing the document a lot easier should it become lost or stolen. You can also have a copy of your passport certified at a local police station. You can use this certified copy as identification if you need it as you travel around Namibia and keep your real passport safely locked in your

Lessons Learned in International Travel: Tips for Others

Learn greetings and basic local words
People love to be greeted in their own language. Especially if traveling to a remote area, making the effort at least to learn how to greet the locals can make all the difference! You can quickly go from being the stuck-up foreigner to the friendly traveler whom people are anxious to welcome. Sometimes, even showing effort to communicate in the local language can go a long way to cause the locals to want to help you, too. For example, for my dissertation research (funded in-part by Sara’s Wish), I moved to a remote part of Tanzania for several months. When I first arrived, though I knew some Kiswahili, I was by no-means fluent, and I had to travel from the airport, across a fairly decent sized city, to catch a boat that would take me to the area where I would live the next 6 months. I was fairly nervous about getting through the city with all of my things (remember, I was moving there to stay for 6 months, so I had some hefty bags). As well, having been there before, I knew that finding a taxi that charged a reasonable rate could be a challenge, particularly for the one who was obviously not from the area. Thankfully, I knew enough Kiswahili to be able to negotiate a reasonable price. By the time we got to the port the taxi driver was so excited I knew “kidogo” – a little — Kiswahili, as broken as my Kiswahili was, that he made it his mission to not only be sure I made it to the port, but also to make sure I ate a good lunch and was not traveling on an empty stomach. We went to the port, got my ticket, and he took me to a hotel where I could keep my bags behind the desk and go eat. Before he left, he showed me where I should go to get a taxi for my return to the port and made sure I was well taken care of by the waitress. I do not think he would have been so helpful if I had not made the effort to communicate with him in Kiswahili (with a smile) – even if I did have to keep my trusty dictionary handy.
Be willing to laugh at yourself
This is sometimes difficult to do, but developing the ability to laugh at yourself – particularly your struggles with the language – takes much of the stress off of being unable to clearly communicate or understand what you are being told. It also gives the locals the freedom to laugh with you, rather than laugh at you. I can provide a personal example. In Kiswahili, the word for books is “vitabu” and the word for potatoes is “viazi.” One day I had some left over viazi that I wanted to share with the 6-year old girl that lived next door. So, I brought my pot of potatoes over, set down the pot in front of her, and (in Kiswahili, of course) rather than saying, “do you want to eat some potatoes (viazi),” I said, “do you want to eat some books (vitabu)?” All the while, pointing to the pot of potatoes. She looked at me, pointed to the pot, laughed, and said, “vitabu”? Recognizing the mistake I made, we both were soon rolling with laughter. We proceeded to tell her mom, who was inside when this all happened, and also had a great laugh from it. Ever since, we jokingly have called “potatoes,” “books.”
Be flexible and patient
In Africa, Mexico, and many other places we often refer to as “developing,” time and plans are much more loose than in many westernized countries, particularly the United States. Learn to “go with the flow.” The people who live there have already learned to do so. So, don’t be overly anxious if you are late because of the bus, because you met someone on the way who wanted to talk, because you had a flat tire, etc. It is likely that the people who are expecting your arrival will not even notice your tardiness, or if they do notice, it likely will not irritate them.
Don’t get discouraged
You may have specific goals you are hoping to achieve as you head off into a new country. If you are unable to achieve them the way you had planned, do not let yourself get discouraged. I have many times traveled somewhere with a plan to teach or serve, but have completely been derailed upon my arrival. Often I find that there are other needs that the community considers to be more pressing priorities. Put their needs before your own plans. Remember they are the ones who have to live there after you have gone! I have found that many times I have needed to alter my plans to fit their needs, and the end result is that we have both gained. For example, the first time I went to Tanzania I was a first-year PhD student. My fellow-student colleagues and I had been told that we would lead a program for local teenage girls. We had been preparing activities for months beforehand. But upon our arrival, we learned that local women leaders thought that we were going to provide trainings to them on how they could/should work with their local girls. So rather than toss out all of the plans we made, we invited the women to come and watch as we worked with the girls, and learn from the methods we were using. Not only did they benefit from this, but the girls benefited, too. However, we also benefited from the presence of the women. They were able to provide wisdom and insight into some of the challenges the girls faced, providing knowledge to us that more rightly informed our activities. Rather than us guessing what some of the needs of the girls were, the women were able to offer what they knew.
Be Wise!
People will be curious about you. You do not have to tell them where you live, why you are there, how long you are staying, if you are single, or if you are interested in romance. Be wise and do not tell them where you live unless they need to know. Do not walk by yourself at night – and even during the daytime be careful where you go alone. If your skin or your dress characterize you as being “western”, you may want to carry your bags on the front of your person and do not put important things in your pockets unless they zip or button.
In some countries, if you are a woman you especially need to be concerned about modesty. I always wore skirts or loose pants that went below mid-calf and never wore tank-tops outside of my compound. It is smart to dress similarly as the women who live in the community. You will probably already attract enough attention and do not want the local men thinking you want additional attention from them!
Smile
If I have learned anything traveling, it is that a friendly smile goes a long way.